Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
ascent
As the paths along this route are often very steep and narrow, and require in some places at least sure-footedness, they are best left to the more experienced. However, those who would like to visit the lovely Gaisalpsee, and avoid the exposed stretch around the Rubihorn, could do so by starting out in Reichenbach (north of Oberstdorf) and then following the Tobelweg to Gais Alpe. From there continue on the track up to the Gaisalpsee. Return the same way.
The Nebelhorn cable railway is taken as far as Vordere See Alpe (1274m), the first stop, thus saving 1hr uphill walking. From here first walk a short distance downhill, then follow the sign ‘Rubihorn’ in a northwesterly direction through pastureland towards the Roßbichl (1466m). The path now curves its way sharply uphill, offering little shade on the way, to the narrow Niedereck Saddle between the Gaisalphorn on the right and the Rubihorn on the left. From here a narrow trail, with wire ropes securing exposed sections, passes the route down to Gaisalpsee on its way to the Rubihorn summit.
For the descent, return to the turn-off passed on the way to the summit and follow the zigzagging path down the mountain’s steep eastern slopes to the Unterer Gaisalpsee (Lower Gaisalpsee). Note that the route down to the lake runs through some rough terrain and involves losing roughly 400m in altitude over a very short distance. With the Rubihorn as a backdrop, the lake and Älpele Hut form a very picturesque ensemble, and a better place for a mountain picnic can scarcely be imagined. Once you have finally managed to drag yourself away from this idyllic setting, continue in a northwesterly direction, first along the steep wooded slopes of the Entschenkopf and then through fields to Gais Alpe. If you did not take advantage of the picnic possibilities by the lake, then food and drink are available at the restaurant here.
Go downhill from the alm along an asphalted road, pass a turn-off on the right to Reichenbach via the Tobelweg, then near a roadside chapel veer left along the Wallrafweg (Gaisalpweg) back to Oberstdorf. For the most part this easy path runs through woods. Just before town you pass Café Breitenberg, then the trail joins the road linking Oberstdorf to Vordere See Alpe.
WALK 5
Edmund-Probst-Haus to the Oytal
| Start | Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 20.5km (13 miles) |
| Total ascent | 580m (1903ft) |
| Total descent | 1684m (5525ft) |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 7hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Käser Alpe, Untere Guten Alpe, Oytal Haus, Café Jägerstand |
| Transport | Local bus (Ortsbus) to bus stop Nebelhornbahn |
| Parking | Car park (parking fee) next to Nebelhornbahn |
| Accommodation | Edmund-Probst-Haus |
| Note | At the valley station ask for a ticket to the Bergstation, not the Gipfelstation which is at the very top. |
This is one of the most scenically rewarding routes in the entire Allgäu Alps. Although there are a few very narrow and somewhat exposed sections of track, where sure-footedness is a prerequisite, it requires above all stamina. Apart from a few steep climbs, and the long descent into the Oytal, it is mostly relatively easy walking along a fairly level, clearly defined alpine trail. In spite of this, the route should not be attempted in unstable weather conditions.
Considering the length of this route it is best to go up with one of the first gondolas (0900 before, and 0830 after, 1 July). If there are enough people queuing the cable railway might even start ½hr or so earlier. The trip up takes around 20min and brings you to the Höfatsblick restaurant, situated below the Nebelhorn summit at an altitude of 1929m.
Because the excursion to the summit of the Nebelhorn (2224m) itself involves a rather lengthy detour, it is best to leave the ascent for another day and to continue south past Edmund-Probst-Haus towards the saddle between the Hüttenkopf and the Zeiger (the route is signposted ‘Laufbacher Eck/Himmeleck/Oytal’), a mere 15min away. Directly below the saddle, nestled at the foot of the Seeköpfel like a glistening blue gem, is the pretty Seealpsee.
Autumn tones at Seealpsee
A steep track goes down past the Seealpsee and would bring you in roughly 2hr directly to Oytal Haus. However, the section of the trail known as the Gleitweg is exposed in places and should be avoided in wet conditions. On no account attempt to walk directly down from the tarn! Slippery grass slopes lead to an abrupt drop over the cliffs of the Seewände.
The route continues along path 428, past the two Seeköpfe to the point where the track curves around the Schochen (2100m). It is often possible to observe chamois grazing on the steep grass slopes near here; anyone equipped with a telephoto lens (at the very least 200mm) might get a few nice portraits. To the south the Höfats and Großer Wilder rise high above the Oytal, dwarfing the tiny Käser Alpe hut, which is located on the basin between. Behind them are lofty peaks belonging to the main Allgäu chain: the three Trettachspitze, the Mädelegabel and the Kratzer.
Turning sharply east, the trail (marked on the map as Laufbacheckweg) now heads towards the Laufbacher-Eck. Before reaching it, however, it is first necessary to cross a steep rock face below the Lachenkopf. This very short section of track does not present any real problems (a wire rope is provided), but the rock is very smooth and some care is necessary if it is wet. After successfully navigating this obstacle it is not long before you begin the steep ascent up to the saddle just below the Laufbacher Eck (2179m). The summit is quickly reached from here.
The tremendous panorama is dominated, to the north, by the chain of mountains stretching from the Nebelhorn to the Breitenberg (the route of the famous Hindelanger Klettersteig or via ferrata). To the northeast is the Rauhhorn and neighbouring peaks, while southeast it is the mighty rock pyramid of the Hochvogel that claims attention.
From the saddle, descend quite steeply down a slippery, pebble-strewn path towards (but not right down to) a mountain rescue hut (Bergwachthütte on map). This stretch usually coincides with the midday heat, but before climbing up to the Himmeleck there is a good spot where you can pause for lunch below the Schneck, a distinctive rock pinnacle which, when observed from a position further south, takes on the appearance of an immense snail crawling downhill. At the Himmeleck Saddle (2001m) you can stop for another breather; this spot is known among botanists because of the edelweiss that grows here. These rare flowers are protected and picking them is strictly forbidden. A short detour to the right goes up a grass slope to the Himmeleck summit (2151m).
Instead of continuing on from below the Schneck to Himmeleck, this route can be extended into a multi-day tour by continuing along path 428 to Prinz-Luitpold Haus. Shortly after passing Schönberg Hut the trail crosses the Stierbach stream and goes past the track (to the left) down to Giebel Haus in the Bärgündeletal. From here Prinz-Luitpold-Haus is soon reached on a good trail – 1hr from Schneck. Spend the night at the hut, then continue next day to Landsberger Hut in Austria (see Walk 6).
The rest of the route back to Oberstdorf is all downhill. Already on the way to Wildenfeld Hut the trail loses about 300m in altitude. The stretch of track that passes below the scree-covered slopes of the Großer and Kleiner Wilder is quite badly eroded in places and can be extremely slippery if wet. Chamois are often seen in the vicinity. At the small hut turn right; the trail now zigzags