Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
When walking in the mountains, always carry wet weather gear and warm clothes as an insurance against sudden changes in the weather. Good walking boots are essential, although trainers are sufficient for some valley walks.
Despite the fact that there are usually huts en route where you can buy refreshments it is nevertheless important to carry some kind of light snack (chocolate, dried fruit, nuts, and so on) and plenty to drink. Small alm huts serving food have irregular hours and are only open for a few months in summer. They may also be closed if the alpine herdsman or shepherd has work elsewhere.
A passport should always be carried where routes run close to or cross national borders. You will probably never be asked to show it, but if you are you’d better have it!
For most walks in this book a small, light inner-frame rucksack is all that is required. For longer tours a narrow inner-frame rucksack with a volume of up to 40 litres should be sufficient. Wide packs with external frames can be very cumbersome, and even dangerous on narrow alpine paths.
Those staying in huts need slippers of some kind as boots are not permitted in the sleeping areas. If staying in a Matrazenlager it is wise to bring ear-plugs. There is always somebody who snores! A light cloth sleeping bag liner is normally required in all AV huts.
As most alpine trails in the Bavarian Alps are usually very well waymarked, many people do not bother with a compass. It is, however, a wise precaution to carry one and to know how to use it in conjunction with a topographical map. Also useful is a GPS device, although as they require batteries it is sensible to carry an ordinary compass as a back-up.
Other useful pieces of equipment are sunglasses, suncream, a hat (the sun’s UV rays should not be underestimated in the mountains), a whistle for emergencies and perhaps gaiters if you are expecting to encounter snow on the trail. A pair of spiked walking poles (known in German as Wanderstöcke and available at any local sports shop) aid balance and help ease the strain on the knees when going downhill. On longer excursions a head torch can be very handy.
Safety in the mountains
The trail above Knorr Hut, near the Zugspitzplatt (Walk 27)
There are mountain rescue (Bergwacht) teams based near all the main resorts in the Bavarian Alps.
Emergency telephone number: 112
Weather report: tel 089 295070 (German), or see www.bergfex.com (English)
Mobile phone coverage can be patchy in alpine regions, so do not rely on your mobile phone alone.
Safety checklist
Inform somebody of your intentions before departure
Do not walk alone, especially in remote alpine regions
Check the current weather forecast (your host, hut wardens or the local tourist office can help here)
Make sure you are properly equipped (see ‘Clothing and equipment’, above)
Ensure that your abilities match the difficulty of the proposed route. Be prepared to turn back in the event of adverse conditions.
International distress signal
To be used in an emergency only: Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until located by a rescuer. Response: three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause.
Food and drink
Although the locals have a predilection for heavy meat dishes, there are always salads and at least a few other vegetarian meals offered at Bavarian restaurants. Menus are often in English and international standards such as omelette and steak are available. Greek, Asian and especially Italian restaurants and ice-cream parlours are also common.
At a typical Bavarian restaurant you can expect dishes like Schweinshaxe (roasted pork knuckle), pork schnitzel, Knödel (dumplings of various kinds) and Leberkäse (liver meatloaf, but in Bavaria without liver). Weißwurst (boiled white sausage) is customarily only eaten up until noon and is served with sweet mustard (Süßer Senf). A typical beer-garden snack is Obazda, a spiced cheese dish based on camembert. At the huts, cold platters (Brotzeitbrett) with smoked ham, various types of sausage and mountain cheeses are well worth trying. Typical desserts include huge plates of Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake) and Germknödel (dumplings filled with plum jam).
Platters of smoked ham and cheese at Wimbachgrieß Hut (Walk 60)
The Oktoberfest in Munich is of world renown but beer can be enjoyed much more cheaply and in a more relaxing way in a local beer garden. Here, lager beer (either dark or pale) can be ordered in a Maß (litre mug) and guests are served by waitresses in Tracht (folk costume). Weizenbier (wheat beer) is also popular and there are various kinds of Starkbier (strong beer). Besides beer, restaurants serve German wine and various types of local schnapps. At both beer gardens and traditional restaurants the meal is often accompanied by live folk music.
Language
German is spoken in Bavaria and Austria, although it is often flavoured by the various local dialects which can make it difficult to understand even for those who are otherwise fluent. However, English is widely spoken and visitors will usually have no trouble finding someone who speaks at least a little English at ticket offices, hotels, restaurants and so forth. The staff at tourist information offices are generally quite fluent and can help with advice on English-speaking doctors, timetables, accommodation and other matters. Nevertheless, a good phrase book will help clarify any communication problems that might arise (see also Appendix E).
Expenses
Holiday costs in the Bavarian Alps are noticeably lower than in other regions in the European Alps, in particular Switzerland. This differential soon becomes obvious in terms of restaurants, shopping and accommodation.
For those on a walking holiday, camping is the cheapest and most flexible form of accommodation. There are plenty of campsites spread along the fringes of the Bavarian Alps, and it is often possible to leave your car at the campsite, and to just pay for your empty tent (leeres Zelt) if you are walking from hut to hut. Pensions or bed and breakfasts are also quite reasonably priced and ideal if you intend to base yourself in an area for several days (most offer discounts for a stay of a week or more) and are not planning to stay in the mountain huts. Every tourist office has a Gästeverzeichnis (accommodation list), and it pays to get hold of a copy.
Using this guide
In this book the Bavarian Alps are divided into six mountain groups, described from west to east. The divisions are more or less in accordance with those stipulated by the Alpine Club (AV).
The routes have been grouped around base towns in order to make planning a walking holiday as easy as possible. A brief portrait of each town has been included to help walkers choose the most suitable place to stay. Apart from the mountain routes, which are described in detail, the authors have also included some shorter valley walks. These walks are generally no longer than 3hr in length and suitable for all ages.
At the start of each route is a box with information to help you plan your route, including the distance, total ascent and descent, grade of difficulty, recommended map, accommodation in huts and so forth. Contact details of the huts are given in Appendix C under the mountain group where the route is located.
Details of transport to the starting point of each route (by bus, cable car and so on) are given, with information on how to return to the start at the end of the day. Where a route starts in the base town and can be reached on foot or by local bus from, say, a nearby village where you may be staying, ‘local bus’ is noted. Parking details are also given.
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