Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
from west to east, the guidebook starts with a look at the Allgäu, a region renowned for its wildflowers, tranquil alpine pastures and the impossibly steep grass slopes that characterise many of its well-known peaks. Moving further east, mountain trails lead past famous castles such as Neuschwanstein, which seems to have materialised from the pages of a storybook. In the vicinity of Garmisch-Partenkirchen you can sunbathe on the grassy summit of the Wank while enjoying a fantastic bird’s-eye view over the world-famous alpine resort. At the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, a trail skirts the shores of the beautiful Eibsee, a pristine lake surpassed in beauty only by the Königssee, visited in the final section of the guidebook. Here, in the Berchtesgaden Alps, trails in the shadow of the mighty Watzmann massif lead you through a landscape of Wagnerian grandeur.
There is, of course, much more to discover along these mountain trails. Upland moors, an ice cave, remote other-worldly karst landscapes like the Steinernes Meer and wild mountain gorges such as the Höllentalklamm, Leutaschklamm and Partnachklamm are just a few of the highlights. But for those who really want to discover the full beauty of the mountains the biggest highlight will be one of the multi-day tours. Perhaps you will experience the famed alpenglow while staying at a remote hut like Kärlinger Haus (Walk 68), or spot a rare bearded vulture on the two-day hike to Leutasch in Austria (Walk 25). Above all, after a few days without the distractions and stress of urban living, you might achieve that sense of calm that only a longer sojourn in the mountains can bring.
Many of the base towns mentioned offer free travel on buses within a designated region. This makes it even easier for visitors to the Bavarian Alps to leave their cars behind and let somebody else do the driving. Not only can the start of many of the walks described be reached for free, but you also have the satisfaction of knowing you are helping the environment at the same time.
Although every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information given on the routes, floods and other natural events can erase landmarks, make it necessary to modify routes, or occasionally render a section of track unwalkable. However, a look at an up-to-date map, or a chat with hut wardens and other hikers on the spot, will ensure that such inconveniences are kept to a minimum.
Grant Bourne and Sabine Körner-Bourne, 2018
Meadow at Schönau (near Königssee, Berchtesgaden Alps)
INTRODUCTION
Those seeking alpine superlatives in the Bavarian Alps will search in vain. There are no peaks that can compete with the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in terms of height, no glaciers of considerable extent, and even the ski slopes have a rather provincial aspect when compared to such famous resorts as Zermatt or St Moritz. Nevertheless, even without superlatives the Bavarian Alps still have their fair share of dramatic scenery. Their position between the lowlands to the north and the higher alpine regions further south offers a dramatic contrast in landscapes, and the proximity of Austria adds further to the region’s charms.
For the walker the advantages of this location are many. For example, it is never far from the valley bottom to the top of a rugged mountain peak, from a picturesque village nestling in the lush green foothills to a lonely alpine tarn. A day in the mountains could be followed by an outing to historic Salzburg (especially if you are based in either Bad Reichenhall or Berchtesgaden) or Munich from where, on a clear autumn day, the mountains seem only a stone’s throw away. One need not even go that far to enjoy a lazy day, for strung along the edge of the Alps is a succession of beautiful lakes (many of which are suitable for bathing), fairy-tale castles (around Füssen), ancient monasteries and opulent baroque churches. Folklore traditions are particularly strong in this part of Bavaria, evident in the numerous Heimatabende (evenings of folk dancing and songs) and the not-uncommon aspect of gnarled old men sporting flowing white beards and wearing lederhosen.
Tradition runs strong in Bavaria: alpenhorn concert at the Kanzelwandbahn (Walk 9)
Of the many hundreds of excellent walking trails to be explored in the Bavarian Alps only a small selection are described in detail in this book. They vary in length from a half-day to four or five days and many are circular (convenient if you have to get back to your car). Where possible, suggestions have been made for longer tours, but with the help of the recommended maps it should be possible to work out your own variations and additional routes.
History
Much of the history of what we now know as Germany is characterised by the fluctuating borders of independent and often warring duchies, princedoms and kingdoms. Bavaria’s history reflects this from the time Germanic tribes coalesced with other groups left after the retreat of the Romans in the late fifth century. This amalgam of peoples came to be known as the Baiuvarii or Bavarians.
In the sixth century Bavaria became a duchy and remained so until 1806. During this span of time its borders repeatedly changed; at one point large parts of Austria and part of northern Italy belonged to Bavaria. With the advent of the 10th century the duchy joined the Holy Roman Empire. In 1180 the Emperor awarded the duchy to the Wittelsbachs who were to rule first as dukes and later kings for over 700 years.
When Napoleon I abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806 Bavaria became a constitutional monarchy. With the rise of Prussia, and the unification of Germany under the German Empire in 1871, the kingdom became a state within the empire. After World War I the monarchy and the empire came to an end. A short-lived socialist republic followed and then Bavaria joined the Weimar Republic. The instability of this republic enabled the emergence of the Nazis, and Hitler helped stage the Beer Hall Putsch in Munich in 1923. After the end of Nazi rule (1933–1945) Bavaria became a part of the Federal Republic of Germany. Today it is the largest and one of the wealthiest of Germany’s 16 states.
Culture
Art and architecture
In few areas of Germany did the opulent baroque and rococo styles (17th–18th centuries) achieve the pre-eminence that they have in Upper Bavaria. Baroque churches with their onion domes seem to rise above every village and are seen perched on hills throughout the region. The even brighter colours and more joyful forms of the rococo (which developed from the baroque) can be admired in many village churches, but it is above all the Pilgrimage Church of Wies (Wieskirche) near Steingaden where it can be seen at its most stunning.
Ceiling detail in the former baroque Monastery Church of St Martin at Fischbachau, near Birkenstein (Walk 43)
However, the baroque influence was not restricted to just the church, it also filtered down to the world of the ordinary folk. This is mainly seen in the 18th-century frescoed house-fronts (Lüftlmalerei) of Oberammergau and Mittenwald and in folk-art such as the painted farmhouse furniture that can be admired in numerous museums of local history.
LUDWIG II, KING OF BAVARIA
Ludwig II (1845–86), King of Bavaria, was both a romantic and tragic figure. He was deposed in 1886 on grounds of supposed insanity and soon after found drowned under mysterious circumstances. A patron of the arts and friend of Wagner, his passion for building castles brought him to the verge of ruin. Yet it is Ludwig who is today the most popular of Bavarian monarchs. His castles Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee now attract visitors from all over the world. They also earned him the title of ‘fairy-tale’ king.
King Ludwig II
Large, picturesque wooden farmhouses are also typical of the region. A feature is the large balcony decorated with flowers on the house front. It is occasionally possible to see a traditional roof with wooden tiles and stones on top to protect it from strong winds.
That the stunning alpine scenery attracted artists is hardly surprising. The