Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
painter Carl Rottmann was among the many who tried to capture alpine grandeur on canvas. In the 20th century artists of the Blue Rider school pioneered a move to abstraction. A museum devoted to leading member Franz Marc can be visited at Kochel am See (Walchensee). Lovis Corinth, one of the most important exponents of German Expressionism, was also fascinated by the area around Walchensee.
Traditional culture
Bavarians can be characterised as a conservative, devoutly religious people (mainly Catholic) and nowhere is this truer than in the alpine regions described in this guide.
Tracht, or folklore costume, plays an important role. Lederhosen (leather pants) and dirndl dresses can be seen as an integral part of the Bavarian identity. Not only is it worn on special occasions but simplified versions are often worn to work. It is important to note, however, that the costumes differ according to region and for the most part they are based on what the 19th-century Tracht movement considered traditional. It was initiated by Maximilian II, the first Bavarian king to wear Tracht himself.
The many religious and folk festivals in the region are a great way to see traditional costumes and hear Bavarian folk music. One of the most interesting, and evidence of a still-strong rural culture, is the Almabtrieb or Viehscheid (cattle round-up). This is when the cattle are herded down from their alpine pastures to winter quarters in the valley. Depending on local weather conditions it takes place throughout the alpine region between mid September and mid October. Good places to see it include Oberstdorf and Königssee near Berchtesgaden. (For exact dates contact the local tourist offices.)
Festivals like the Bauernwochen (Farmer’s Weeks) in Mittenwald in September are great for an experience of local tradition
Plants and wildlife
In all mountain regions different plant communities grow at different altitudes. A walk from the valley floor to the top of an alpine peak will take you through several vegetation zones: cultivated fields and woodland lower down, shrublands and alpine meadows as you ascend. Due to the extreme climatic conditions the higher alpine regions are only relatively sparsely vegetated. In the Bavarian Alps the Latsche or dwarf pine (Pinus mugo) is the most characteristic plant above the treeline (1700–1900m). Related to the pine (Pinus sylvestris), it grows at altitudes up to 2700m and has the appearance of a bush rather than a tree.
Below 1700m the forests are characterised by conifers such as spruce and fir, but large stands of beech are still found in those areas which have not been over-exploited by the forestry industry. Relatively untouched mountain forests are dominated by a mixture of pine and beech (800–1400m), and in recent years efforts have been made to establish healthier mixed forests (less susceptible to disease and insect pests) by planting more deciduous species along with the quick-growing conifers. In autumn the sycamore and European larch are especially noticeable as their leaves turn to a striking golden-yellow.
Human influence on the local plant communities is most evident on the lower mountain slopes and in the valleys. Fields of wildflowers – that many may think represent a natural, undisturbed environment – in fact result from the grazing of alpine pastures over many centuries. Without this grazing, or the mowing of grass for hay, the mountain pastures would soon be overgrown by weeds and eventually forest would take over. Various species of orchid, gentian and globeflower are just a few of the many that can be seen in the course of a walk through alm pastures. Probably the best known and most characteristic of the flowering plants at higher altitudes (up to 2800m) is the alpenrose with its pink-red flowers. Among the rarest plants found in the region are the famous edelweiss and the beautiful lady’s slipper orchid.
Alpine flowers: (clockwise from top left) stemless gentian, hellebore and alpenrose
The last brown bears were exterminated in the Bavarian Alps in the 19th century and the wolf and lynx fared no better – small populations have managed to survive, however, in a few isolated regions elsewhere in the Alps. In the absence of predators the herbivores have managed to do quite well, although even here a few species have been reintroduced after over-hunting and loss of habitat decimated local populations. Among the larger animals you are most likely to encounter are red deer (in the lower forested regions), chamois and ibex. Large birds such as the capercaillie and black grouse are very rare, while the golden eagle and bearded vulture are still struggling to re-establish themselves after being brought to the verge of extinction.
If the above sounds like a rather depressing litany of ecological disaster it might be a relief to know that the alpine chough is quite common and continues to amuse mountain walkers with its acrobatic flight techniques and the undivided interest it shows in the contents of one’s lunch box. Ptarmigan are found in high alpine regions where their plumage blends in perfectly with the light grey rocks. In winter they turn snow-white (like the snow hare) so it takes a bit of luck, and a keen eye, to see them at any time of the year. Marmots usually leave you in no doubt as to their existence by emitting a shrill warning cry as soon as you approach. In some places they have grown so used to the presence of people that they are content to just stare back at you from the vicinity of their holes. The burrows which these small, furry rodents dig are quite impressive: up to 10m long and 3m deep.
Among the smaller representatives of the animal kingdom worth special mention are two species of salamander. The spotted or fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra) is found at lower altitudes on forested slopes, whereas the black alpine salamander (Salamandra atra) may be found at altitudes of up to 3000m (see also Walk 48). Both species are best observed in the early morning when dew still lies on the ground, or just after it has rained. Less common (in spite of the name) is the common viper or adder (Vipera berus), a poisonous snake which inhabits upland moors. However, as it is very shy you are unlikely to see one.
This brief survey of alpine plant and wildlife is of course by no means complete, and space precludes listing all the colourful butterflies and other insects that you may encounter during a sojourn in the mountains. See Appendix B for some useful book titles.
Getting there
By rail
Many of the base towns in this book can be reached by train, and for those travelling from the UK this can be a very relaxing way of reaching their destination. Using the Eurostar from London’s Waterloo station to Brussels, and onward via German ICE high-speed trains, it would take about 10hr to reach Munich. The overall cost might be higher than flying with a low-cost airline, however.
For more information on tickets visit the Rail Europe website www.raileurope.com. For details on train routes through Germany visit www.bahn.de.
By road
If travelling by car the excellent German motorways (Autobahn) are the quickest way south. From Frankfurt the A3, A7 and A8 take you via Munich from where the western, central and eastern regions of the Bavarian Alps are only a relatively short drive away. From Karlsruhe (near the French border and southeast of Luxemburg) the A8 and A7 provide a speedy connection to the Allgäu Alps. As an example of the distances involved, Dunkirk to Munich is 969km, Munich to Garmisch-Partenkirchen 90km.
Bavaria’s scenic roads make driving a pleasure (Berchtesgadener Land, baroque church Maria Gern in the background)
By air
The closest international airports are Munich (www.munich-airport.de) in Germany, together with those at Salzburg (www.salzburg-airport.com) or Innsbruck (www.innsbruck-airport.com) in Austria. From Munich all destinations in the Bavarian Alps are quickly reached by either train, bus or car. For international travellers the main point of entry into Germany