The Delmonico Cook Book. Alessandro Filippini
superior to, stands at least fully on a par with, the English rival.
Our farmers and agriculturists have learned a great deal on this question. They now know that, as to early lambs, for instance, the ewes should be strong, and kept in good condition, so that they can supply the lambs with plenty of milk. They are now kept in a warm barn where the cold winds do not touch them, and where the sun can shine on them. They commence feeding them by putting a little bran in the lamb’s mouth, so that it can taste it, and the lambs commence eating from a box separate from the sheep. They generally feed them with cracked corn or meal, and sometimes oats and corn ground together, with plenty of milk from the ewes. If kept in good order and well fed, they will be ready for market by the time they are six to eight weeks old. After the month of June, lambs come from New York State—mostly from Dutchess County. They are turned out to graze on the hills, where some cracked corn and meal are put in the fields, so they can eat it at their pleasure. Many of the late sheep and lambs come from Canada. Two of the largest sheep ever sold in New York were raised by Mr. Vail, of Dutchess County, and sold by A. Luyster to Mr. L. Delmonico for the sum of $100. The two weighed, alive, 632 lbs., and dressed, 420 lbs.
One of the leading questions that directly affects the American cuisine is the contest now progressing as to the transportation of animal food to the great Eastern markets. Heretofore live cattle were transported to, and slaughtered at, the places of consumption. This so-called home-slaughtering interest has within the past few years experienced great competition with the slaughterers of cattle in the far West, who have brought their meats to the Eastern market in refrigerator-cars. The great question now is: Which is the better way, and by which method are the public interests served the best, as well as the sanitary condition of this important article of food most improved?
There can be no doubt that, while this controversy lasts, the consumer has already been benefited, and the transportation of live cattle has already been greatly facilitated and improved. The quality of the meat does not depend upon the place where the animal is slaughtered, but it does depend upon the state of the animal’s health when it is slaughtered. Let the cattle-cars be improved so that cattle can be transported without being knocked about and bruised, and let them be properly fed and watered while in transit; after making the long journey from the far West, let them be well rested and cooled off before slaughtering.
The Western dressed-beef men will also have to be on their mettle in order to meet the exigencies of the times. Let them keep their wild prairie cattle and their scalawags out of the better markets, handle their beef carefully, keep it subjected to a uniform temperature of about 38° Fahrenheit, discard all artificial preservative means, and all opponents to their interests will be bereft of argument.
OUR MARKETS.
Our markets contain an abundant supply of poultry and game of an exceptionally fine quality. For superior and palatable chickens we are recommended to those raised about the creameries of New Jersey. The hand-fed geese and ducks of Rhode Island rival in flavor and delicacy the celebrated Caneton-de-Rouen, while the American turkeys are famous the world over. To give any adequate idea of the quantity of game which comes from the vast feeding-grounds of this country, or to enumerate substantially every form in which, during the different seasons, game appears in market, would require too much space.
No game is more highly prized or more eagerly sought after in Europe than our American canvas-back ducks, grouse and wild turkeys. It has become part of our history that during the late war twenty thousand turkeys were shipped by one firm in New York City to supply a Thanksgiving dinner to an army; while at present so plentiful is the supply that but a few days would be required to secure double that number.
Near Rhode Island, on one farm of about fifty acres, twenty thousand geese, and as many ducks, are fattened annually for market. In Vermont and other cold localities during December, when turkeys are full grown and fattest, hundreds of tons of them are dressed, frozen hard in boxes, and preserved in that condition for use in the spring and summer months; when freshly killed, turkeys are tough and unpalatable. Unless well experienced, the purchaser would do better to leave the selection of poultry and game to some reliable dealer, rather than depend upon “signs,” which are at times deceiving.
Spring chickens appear in market about May; those hatched in incubators come somewhat earlier. They are very small, weighing about a pound each, and improve in flavor and richness as they increase in size. Tender chickens may be had almost the whole year, but they are not plentiful during the spring months.
Capons are good from December until April.
Young turkeys are first killed in September; they are full grown and fattest in December, and remain good until spring, when they are superseded by frozen turkeys.
Geese and ducks are first brought to market in June, and, if they have been properly fed, are a great delicacy. They may be had through the summer, autumn, and winter months. Geese are called “green” until they are three or four months old.
Guinea-fowls are best in summer and autumn, when young and fat.
Squabs are in market the whole year.
The laws for killing and selling game vary somewhat in the different States, and sometimes in the different counties of the same State. Reference is made principally in regard to the New York City markets. So great are the facilities for forwarding quickly by rail and steamer, that supplies of game are easily obtained from long distances; and birds killed in southern Texas, or other remote places, may be served perfectly fresh on New York tables a few days later. The flight of birds is greatly controlled by the weather. An early or late season, or a wet or dry one, or even a cold wave, may hasten or retard them, and make game plentiful or scarce, fat or poor; but an abundant supply of all kinds of game in its best condition is generally to be had in the months it is in season, as follows:
Ruffed grouse, commonly called partridges, are in season from September 1 to February 1.
Pinnated grouse, commonly called prairie-chickens, from September 1 to February 1.
Quails, from November 1 to February 1.
Woodcock are in the market from August 1 to February 1, and are fattest in October.
English snipe appear in the spring, and again in the autumn, when they are in their best condition, and are to be had in smaller quantities during the winter.
Yellow-legged snipe, robin or red-breasted snipe, dowicher and black-breasted or winter snipe, also common snipe, are abundant in the spring, and again from July through October, when they are best.
Upland, grass, or gray plover are in market through the spring and summer months, and are fattest in August and September.
Doe-birds are to be had at about the same time. They are plover of a larger size, and are considered not inferior to any other.
Golden plover, or frost-birds, are plentiful in the spring, and are in fine condition in September and October.
Sora, or Virginia rail, are best in September and October.
Reed-birds, or rice-birds, become very fat in August and September. When found among the reeds of New Jersey they are called reed-birds, and rice-birds when from the wild rice-fields of the South.
Rabbits and hares are in season from November 1 to February 1.
Venison is in market from August 1 to January 1 only, and is good during that time.
Antelope may be generally had through the autumn and winter months.
Wild pigeons appear in the spring and autumn, but no longer in such immense numbers as formerly. It is only possible to obtain them for market when their “nestings” are near a railroad, which facilitates their quick shipment. The young birds (wild squabs), taken from the nest, make a most delicious broil.
Wild ducks, swan, geese, and brant are in season from September 1 to May 1.