The Delmonico Cook Book. Alessandro Filippini
a very peculiar flavor. Tomcods, or frost-fish. A small fish weighing about one-fourth of a pound each; very sweet, and a desirable pan-fish. Cusk. Blackfish. Grouper. Smelts. Mullet [Mugil albula]. A Southern fish, sweet and oily, and a good pan-fish. Red-snapper. Skate. Shad are received during this month from St. John’s River, Florida. Black bass. Salmon-trout. Whitefish. Yellow perch. Pickerel. Masquallonge. Cisco. Wall-eyed pike. Green turtle. Terrapin. Crayfish. Frogs’ legs. Prawns. Scallops. Hard crabs. Soft crabs. This is a different variety of crab than is found in the summer; it is very much smaller, and of a brown color; not equal in flavor to the soft crab found during the summer.
VEGETABLES.
Vegetables are grown to such an extent in the South, and also in hot-houses in the North, that we may enjoy, even in the coldest winter weather, nearly every variety.
The growing of vegetables in the South for Northern markets received its impetus through an incident which happened in a then well-known resort in New York. A party of gentlemen, among them a steward on one of the Southern steamers, were seated one day in January conversing, when the steward, who was in the habit of bringing mint with him for this particular resort, ordered a mint-julep; this order, at that time of the year, created a little surprise, especially to one of the party, who was a dealer in vegetables. However, the matter was explained, and the dealer arranged with the steward to bring him some mint, together with whatever vegetables he could get, on each of his Northern trips. The demand for them increased so fast that a great many growers commenced to raise vegetables, so that the business has grown to vast proportions.
The following information may be useful to those who wish to know at what season of the year certain vegetables may be had, and also where they may be had in their prime.
Asparagus. The consumption of asparagus has grown so much during the past few years, partly, perhaps, through the recommendation of physicians, that it might be well here to give an idea as to where and when it is grown. It first makes its appearance in market from the middle of February until the middle of March, according to the condition of the weather.
Occasionally it may be had during the winter from hot-houses, but of inferior quality. The first of out-door growth comes from Charleston, S. C., where there are a number of very large beds, and where it is grown very successfully, both as to quality and quantity. It is shipped from there to Baltimore, Washington, Philadelphia, and New York, arriving at the latter place by express in a little less than forty-eight hours after cutting. Although North Carolina is growing more every year, the next location where it is raised in quantities for market is Norfolk, Va., the quality being of the best. We now reach our own vicinity—Oyster Bay and New Jersey. The former place has long had the reputation of raising the finest asparagus, but as a great many of their beds are getting old, and not receiving the proper attention, they are fast losing their prestige to Jersey, where they are growing more and more every year, and of the very finest quality. Asparagus may be had at its best from the 1st of May, until the 1st of June; after this time it commences to run out until July first, when cutting is stopped. The demand has been so great for the past few years that, although more and more is raised every year, the price advances instead of getting less, and for the large “Colossal” or “Delmonico” asparagus immense prices are paid.
French artichokes may be had all the year round; the quality and size depend on the condition of the weather during their growth. Most of the supply is from France, but occasionally from California and the South.
Jerusalem artichokes appear from the 1st of October until June; they are always good.
String beans can be had from the middle of February until December; they are in their prime during the spring and fall months. Occasionally we receive them in December and January from Havana, but they are not first-class.
Lima beans, which are seldom shipped from the South, can be had from August until frost sets in; they are always good.
Beets all the year round; best in spring and summer.
Cabbage all the year round; always good. The first new cabbage comes from Florida in March. During the winter large quantities of cabbages are imported from Denmark.
Carrots all the year; the small young ones appearing in the spring.
Chives can be had all the year round.
Cucumbers all the year round. In the winter we get them from the hot-houses around Boston; they are of the very finest quality, although rather expensive.
Cauliflower all the year round; we have them in January, February, and March from England and France, and in April and May from the hot-houses on Long Island. They are of fine quality at all seasons except during summer.
Celery may be had in every month but May and June, but is best during the cold weather. It is being extensively raised in Kalamazoo, Mich., for the past three or four years; and as they raise it much earlier than we, and of good quality, it will not be long before we have it all the year round.
Chervil may be had all the year round, but is usually poor during warm weather.
Chicory we have from August until March; best during fall and winter months; occasionally during February and March; a fine quality comes from France.
Corn or winter salad (called by the French doucette, and by the Germans fetticux) from September until warm weather sets in. It is purely, as its name indicates, a winter salad, as it never grows in the summer.
Cress all the year round; best in the spring.
Dandelion from January 1 to June.
Escarole salad from August until March.
Egg-plant all the year round; scarce during winter.
Garlic all the year round; in large quantities for the past two or three years during May, June, and July, from New Orleans.
Herbs, such as thyme, sage, sweet basil, borage, dill, lavender, sweet-fennel, sweet-marjoram, rosemary, summer-savory, tansy, etc., may be had green in the summer and fall, and dry during the balance of the year.
Kohl-rabi from May until November.
Knot celery from September until May.
Leeks all the year round.
Lettuce can be had all the year round. In the winter it comes from the hot-houses of Boston, Providence, Long Island, and Jersey, but principally from Providence, as that city for the past few years has made a business of growing lettuce for the New York market. It is best in the fall and spring. It is almost impossible to grow good lettuce in the summer, for, should it head at all, the warm weather would rot it.
Mint can be had nearly all the year round; scarce during December and January.
Mushrooms can be had all the year round; they are raised principally in cellars and hot-houses on Long Island, and the demand for them increases yearly. The people are gradually getting over the fear they once had of the poisonous toad-stools, of which, by the way, there is no danger now, as the mushrooms are carefully picked and sent to market by men who understand the business. They are scarce during the very warm weather.
Oyster-plant can be had from September until June.
Okra appears all the year round; in the winter and spring it comes from Havana.
Parsley all the year round.
Onions may be had all the year round.
Green peppers all the year round. In winter we get them from Havana.
Potatoes all the year round. There need be but little fear of a potato-famine. During the past few years, when our own crop has been light, large quantities were imported from England, Ireland, Scotland, and Germany. The first new potatoes come from Bermuda about April 1.
Sweet potatoes from August until