The Delmonico Cook Book. Alessandro Filippini
March until November.
Parsnips from September until June.
Pumpkins from September until February.
Romaine salad can be had in the spring and fall.
Radishes all the year round; they are very scarce in hot weather.
Rhubarb from February until July.
Brussels-sprouts from October until April. We import the very finest from France during March and April, but our growers are improving in raising them from year to year, and we hope before long to rival the French.
Kale-sprouts from November until June.
Shallots all the year round. They are green in spring and summer and can be had dry during winter.
Spinach all the year round; it is covered up in the early winter to keep it from freezing, but occasionally during extreme cold weather the cold reaches it, when it is impossible to cut it, which makes it scarce and high in the markets.
Sorrel can be had all the year round; it is raised mostly by French gardeners.
White and yellow summer-squash from April until October.
Marrow-squash all the year round, except May and part of June; they are used quite generally to make pies instead of pumpkins.
Tomatoes can be had all the year round, except December and part of January. The first new ones come from Key West; they are of excellent quality.
White and ruta-baga turnips can be had all the year round.
Estragon appears from March until December.
WATER-MELONS AND MUSK-MELONS.
Water-melons first make their appearance in market about the first of July, and can be had until the middle of October. Unlike the musk-melon, they are of a rather hardy nature, and after the melon has grown on the vine, the changes in temperature, or rain, have little effect on them. The first in market come from Florida, and as the season advances we get them from further North, until New Jersey is reached. More melons are raised in Georgia than in any other State, and of far better quality. The best variety to be relied on, as to quality, is known as the “Gem.”
Musk-melons, although raised in nearly all parts of the country where the climate will admit, are seldom shipped to New York from any distance further than North Carolina, as a musk-melon, in order to be of good flavor, must be ripened, or nearly so, on the vine. When ripe they are so easily cracked or mashed that they would not stand transportation. For the past two or three years, a few, of a rather hard-rind variety, but of excellent flavor, have been shipped from New Orleans, but with only partial success, as the cost of transportation and the loss are so great that it hardly pays. We often hear the remark, “I have not eaten a good melon this season.” This can be easily explained.
A melon is of a very sensitive nature, and the delicious flavor is destroyed by rain or cold weather. A melon-patch from which we get finely flavored melons to-day, may be ruined (as to flavor) for a few days, by a heavy rain-storm; for the melon absorbs water like a sponge. When we have hot nights and no rain, we have perfect melons. Invariably, it is during this kind of weather that they are most appreciated. Melons first appear about the middle of July, and last until cold weather.
HOW TO SET A TABLE.
To set a table seems, perhaps, very easy, but to set it properly and tastily is not such an easy matter. The advice herewith given may prove advantageous to many.
Place the table in the centre of the dining-room, under the chandelier, and see to it that it is perfectly steady; that is to say, that there is no danger of its being shaken while the dinner is in progress. Should it not rest firmly, perhaps an old relic, in the shape of a Bland Dollar, could be made serviceable by placing it under one of the feet. See to it that there is plenty of space between each cover; it is annoying to come in contact with every move of your neighbor.
A—Plates.
B—Flowers.
C—Sherry.
D—Sauterne.
E—Fruits.
F—Cakes.
G—Celery.
H—Radishes.
I—Black and Red Pepper.
K—Salt Cellars.
1—Green Glass for Sauterne.
2—Glass for Sherry.
3—Red Glass for Rhine Wine.
4—Glass for Champagne.
5—Glass for Latour.
6—Glass for Chambertin.
7—Glass for Water.
A table for six persons should be six feet long. Take a woolen cloth and put it over the table, and then place a linen cloth on top of it; this will deaden the noise of plates and glasses.
Flowers should never be absent from the table when you have guests; they can be procured at all seasons. A large basket or bouquet should be placed in the centre of the table; a large bouquet on the right side for each lady, and a small boutonniére for each gentleman, also on the right side of the cover.
On each side of the centre-piece place a fruit-stand, nicely arranged with the choicest fruits of the season. Next to this place a compotier with assorted cakes. Place celery, olives, or radishes symmetrically in the space that is left between the centre and the covers. Fish-knives, soup-spoons, and oyster-forks must be placed on the right side of the plate, and the fork on the left side. If desired, place fancy pieces on the table, (pièces montées); but as the foregoing items pertain only to a dinner for six persons it would crowd out much available space. The diagram on the preceding page will illustrate the arrangement of the glasses on the table.
Napkins can be arranged in various styles and figures; into flowers or any other desired form. The latest and most fashionable way is to arrange them folded plainly, so as to show the monogram of the family. A small salt-cellar should be placed at each cover, to avoid asking the servant for it.
Menus, either printed or written, should be placed at each cover. It is not a breach of etiquette to refuse a course you do not desire; by knowing what is coming, you can with propriety refuse a course, and take the next one.
About ten minutes before commencing dinner, fill the decanters with Sauterne and with sherry, and place the same on the table, as in diagram, marked C and D.
HOW TO SERVE MEALS.
Nearly every family of means is in the habit of giving a few dinners to its friends during the year. As a matter of course, the members of the family are, in return, invited to “dine out.”
If you invite your friends to a dinner, you should not wish them to go away dissatisfied. After a varied experience of many years, both in this country and in Europe, the author feels that no apologies are necessary if he endeavors to enlighten our epicures and dinner-givers as to how to arrange and serve a fine