The modern groom, showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion
140
111.
A footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair. His “pouter” coat dates from the reign of George III. By the courtesy of Messrs. F. T. Prewett and Co.
141
112.
A sheriff’s coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of George II. By the courtesy of Messrs. Prewett and Co.
142
113.
The wig-bag (a survival of the bag-wig) now seen on the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor’s coachman
143
114.
A modern page-boy’s livery
145
115.
The Dutch skeleton dress, fashionable for boys in 1826
145
116.
The cockade known as the “large treble,” representing a survival of the chaperon
152
117.
A “treble cockade” covered with black cloth for mourning. The concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon
154
118.
Treble cockade used by Chelsea pensioners
155
119.
The Regent cockade
155
120.
Royal cockade for state occasions
155
121.
Ordinary Royal cockade
155
122.
Two stages in the evolution of the chaperon. Combined hood and cape
156
123.
Enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black)
156
124.
Further development of the chaperon. Cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will
157
125.
A chaperon ready made up, in order to save trouble. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black)
157
126.
Dress worn by the girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham. It is a modification of the Dervish Djibah
172
127.
Dress worn by the girls at the Croft School, Betley, when at work
173
128.
St. Gregory the Great with his father Gordianus, who was a senator, on his right, and his mother Sylvia on his left. This shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times. From an authentic picture (after Marriott)
188
129.
A priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the Eucharist
194
130.
The coat of arms of Thomas à Becket, showing an archbishop’s pall
The head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple, the cap which represents the chin-cloth, together with the frontal and the hood
203
132.
The head-dress of a lady of the time of Henry II. The wimple is shown covering the chin and head-bands (after Calthrop)
203
133.
The chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed (after Calthrop)
203
134.
Hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century
209
135.
The hanging sleeve of a Chancellor of Oxford University
211
136.
A college cap or trencher
214
137.
Cranmer’s hat, illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board (after Fairholt)
214
138.
The hat of a bishop of the Stuart Period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary (after Fairholt)
214
139.
The wig of a modern judge
216
140.
The vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law
217
141.
A barrister’s gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer. The buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently
