The Heritage of Dress. Wilfred Mark Webb

The Heritage of Dress - Wilfred Mark Webb


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of the present reign 224 143. The wig-bag or “flash” from a Court suit, showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag. At the lower corners of the latter loops are seen, which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed, which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch 229 144. The hood from the mantle of a Knight of the Garter, showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe 230 145. Relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an Imperial Yeoman 233 146. Chain mail illustrated by the brass of Sir Richard de Trumpington, A.D. 1289 234 147. A reversion in military equipment. One of Cromwell’s Ironsides (1679), from a print. A Cavalryman sketched at Aldershot in 1901. Copied, by permission, from the Daily Mail 237 148. The prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets 239 149. The Oscan Pulicinella of 1731, without a long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) 256 150. The Calabrian Giangurgolo of 1731, with the long nose. The dress is very similar to that figured in 1630 (after Riccoboni) 257 151. An ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of Punch (after Ficorroni) 258 152. A fourteenth-century puppet-show (from the MS. of the “Roman d’Alexandre”) 259 153. Punch, from the Punch and Judy Show, showing the ruff and other details of Elizabethan costume 263 154. Judy, from the Punch and Judy Show, with ruff, mob cap, and apron 263 155. The Beadle, from the Punch and Judy Show 264 156. The Doctor, from the Punch and Judy Show, with wig and white tie 264 157. A clown, showing a survival of an Elizabethan costume 270 158. The dress of a modern harlequin 284 159. A pantaloon, showing an Elizabethan costume of which Venetian breeches form part 285 160. The bands that survive on a lady’s nightdress 289 161. A woman’s nightcap, still worn in Wiltshire 289 162. A man’s nightcap, from Oxfordshire 290 163. An English horse amulet in the form of a crescent. The flat places near the tips of the horns are evidence that the form is derived from two boars’ tusks 294 164. An English horse amulet showing both the heart and the sun 296 165. The cowry-shell ornaments on the head of an officer’s charger of the 10th Hussars. The pendant recalls that on mules in Palestine 298 166. Cowry shells on an Eastern mule, hanging like the pendant of the 10th Hussars 299 167. Cowry shells on the head-stall of a camel from Palestine 299 168. A Merveilleuse (after A. Robida) 345 169. A modern family, consisting of the average-sized mother, the taller daughter, and the puny boy (from a drawing by Miss Audrey Watson in “Physical Efficiency,” by Dr. Cantlie, by kind permission of Messrs. Putnam’s Sons) 357

       THE THRALL OF DRESS

       Table of Contents

      THE PRINCIPLES OF EVOLUTION APPLIED TO CLOTHES

      The numbers in the text refer to a bibliography at the end of the book

      Unluckily, perhaps, we are born naked and helpless, but no sooner do we come into the world than we are provided with body-guards in the shape of clothes. In consequence, our social position is made manifest. Our vanity is flattered at the same time that our modesty is assured. On the other hand, however, our skin may be chafed, our hair worn away, and, should our equipment strictly follow the dictates of the Goddess Fashion, our bodies may even be deformed and our lives shortened. Moreover, there are other penalties to be paid; we are kept warm in summer as well as in winter, the purchase of our attire may entail the spending of much money, while the mere donning and doffing of our clothes gives rise to a prodigious waste of time.

      Even tramps have at intervals to replace the rags which cover them, and while, for all practical purposes,


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